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What is an EICR and who needs one?

EICR stands for Electrical Installation Condition Report and is required by every landlord who is renting out a property as well as, ideally, every homeowner. Read on to see why!

Who needs an EICR?

 

Landlords

Landlords who rent out any residential property must have an EICR rated ‘satisfactory’ in place and issue it to each existing tenant or prospective tenant if requested. Incidentally, it has always been a requirement to provide a property that has safe electrics, however, as from 1st July 2020, issuing a tenant with a ‘satisfactory’ EICR has become mandatory and there can be a stiff fine (up to £30,000!) for not having one in place. Landlords require an up to date EICR.

Home sellers

Home sellers – it is becoming increasingly popular for a prospective buyer to request a copy of an EICR from the seller and certainly more often required by the conveyancing solicitor before exchange of contracts.

Home buyers

Home buyers – This purchase is likely to be the most significant thing that you ever buy. Requesting a copy of a current EICR is the best way of really knowing what the condition of the electrics are. Much can be covered up by shiny new sockets and a modern consumer unit.

Home owners

Home owners – If you are thinking of redecorating, refurbishing, extending or converting the loft – always get a full electrical test done first! Sadly, we visit many homes that have just finished decorating and then decide they would like to add a couple of sockets or lights etc, only to find that the whole installation is not adequate and requires updating before we can install them. Carpets and floors may have to be pulled up and walls chased to achieve the desired result, as well as having a credit card to meet the unexpected cost!

Home insurance

Home insurance – since a high proportion of fires within the home are caused by faulty electrics, somewhere in the small print of your insurance policy there is likely to be a clause stating something similar to this all reasonable steps should be taken to maintain the property in a good condition. If there was a fire, one of the first things the company is likely to ask for is a copy of your latest electrical report.

Those that want peace of mind!

Those that want peace of mind! – Having a ‘satisfactory’ EICR means that you can be confident that you have done all that you can to ensure that your electrics are safe and unlikely to be a cause of any serious problem. Not only that, you and your family are being kept safe too!

How long is an EICR valid for?

Usually, a rental property report is valid for a maximum 5 years and a private residence 10 years, although the engineer carrying out the test can override how often the test should be valid for. A label will be adhered to the consumer unit stating when the test should be repeated as a maximum date.

What is covered by an EICR?

When an EICR is carried out on a rental property it should include all the fixed wiring within the premises that is rented by the tenant, so this would include any garage or outbuilding that the tenant has access to.

Fixed wiring includes every individual circuit from the consumer unit (fuse board) and inspection of a proportion (usually a minimum of 25%) of the outlets on that circuit, for example, the upstairs lights have 5 outlets – 3 bedrooms, a bathroom and landing – then at least 2 of those pendants / light fittings should be removed and inspected. If those 2 do not look satisfactory then further investigation would be recommended, which would usually be at extra cost / time.

How long does an EICR take?

A full test of any property will take a minimum of a couple of hours and often 3 – 4 hours. It really depends on how many circuits are in the property – a one bedroom flat with storage heaters can have twice as many circuits as a 4 bedroom house with gas central heating!

It also depends on how many problems there are. If a circuit tests fine and there have not been lots of ‘additions’ to it by unqualified ‘DIYers’ then things tend to go a lot more smoothly and quicker. You can be assured of one thing, the engineer wants to get through it a quickly as possible and to be out of your way, just as much and you do!

Who should carry out an EICR?

An EICR must be carried out by a suitably qualified electrical engineer who is registered with an approved electrical governing body such as the NICEIC. You can I find an Approved Electrical Contractor by searching the NICEIC website or on other sites such as Checkatrade.

What happens when you have an EICR?

It will involve the engineer accessing all the sockets, lights and any other electrical outlets such as a cooker or a shower, in the property. This means they will have to have access to every room and, ideally every socket. The power will need to be turned off for most of the time.

  • The overall condition of the installation – if cabling and finishing looks shoddy then it would imply that the installation has not been carried out by a qualified electrician and so there are likely to be issues.
  • A visual inspection of all accessories.
  • Are there cracked sockets / switches, or signs of burning / overload?
  • Are there electrical connections with the lids missing etc?
  • Is there cabling just draped across the back of a cupboard for example and not clipped securely?
  • Are there local isolation switches in place where required, for example at the cooker, shower and extractor fans?
  • Is ‘earth bonding’ in place to the water and gas? (The green and yellow wire that you often see fixed near a water stop cock etc)
  • Is the consumer unit made of metal?
  • Is the consumer unit marked up correctly so that each fuse / circuit breaker (MCB) is controlling the actual circuit that it says it does? (or, quite commonly, is there any labelling at all!
  • Are the cable sizes adequate for the fuse ratings?
  • Is there RCD (residual current device) protection to all circuits that are run within walls i.e. not surface mounted in mini trunking etc. This is a requirement of the 18th Edition wiring regulations and so, whilst correct at the time of installation, is normally required as an upgrade if the property is being rented.
  • Testing of the individual circuits.

The meter that the engineer uses can test whether:

  • there is an earth connection at each outlet, where required.
  • a ‘ring circuit’ is actually a ‘ring’ on all 3 of the wires – ie Live, Neutral and Earth. Sockets may apparently be working fine – but not safely – if at some point one of those wires is not fully connected.
  • The insulation around the wires is breaking down / damaged, and not adequately insulating each individual cable.
  • The earthing of the property to the incoming electric supply is adequate.
  • The RCD functions correctly
  • Isolation switches actually isolate!

Common ‘Class 2’ issues that we find, and thus need to be addressed before a ‘satisfactory’ report can be issued:

  • Not fully RCD protected – often the sockets are covered but not the light circuits.
  • A ring circuit is not ‘a ring’ – i.e. a break in the ‘daisy chain’ that should be in place from one end to the other at the consumer unit.
  • Extra sockets have been added – with more than one in a row, spurring off from a ring circuit.
  • Downlights (spotlights) badly terminated.
  • Downlights not fire rated where required
  • Downlights in a bathroom not suitable – IP rated
  • Bathroom light not suitable for its location – not IP rated.
  • Earths not connected in – particularly to metal light fittings
  • No earth bonding to the incoming water supply (more common than to the gas meter because it is usually more awkward to fit!)